Yule in Iceland: Christmas Traditions Visitors Can See and Join
Christmas in Iceland starts early and ends late. It runs from mid December to January 6, and it comes with a cast of characters you will not meet anywhere else. If you are visiting in December, knowing a few of the customs makes the city and the people around you much easier to enjoy.
Quick answer: In Iceland, 13 Yule Lads arrive one per night from the night of December 11, the main Christmas celebration starts at 6pm on December 24, people eat skate on December 23, and families give books under the tree as part of the Christmas Book Flood. The season ends on January 6 with bonfires and fireworks. Many businesses change their hours around the holidays, so plan ahead.
The 13 Yule Lads
The Yule Lads are mischievous characters from Icelandic folklore. One arrives each night, starting on the night of December 11, and the last arrives on Christmas Eve, December 24. Children put a shoe on the windowsill, and a lad leaves a small gift if they have been good. The first is Stekkjastaur, who sucks milk from sheep, and the last is Kertasníkir, who follows children to steal their candles. After Christmas they return to the mountains one by one, and the last leaves on January 6.
Grýla and the Yule Cat
The Yule Lads have a famous mother, Grýla, a troll who lives in the mountains. Folklore says she hunts misbehaving children at Christmas. Her pet is the Yule Cat, Jólakötturinn, a huge black cat said to catch children who do not get new clothes for Christmas. Reykjavík often features a large Yule Cat installation as part of its Christmas decorations, making it a fun detail to look for while exploring the city.
Þorláksmessa on December 23
December 23 is Þorláksmessa, when many people finish decorating the tree, buy last presents and head into town in the evening. It is also traditional to eat skate, a fish with a very strong smell that lingers on clothes and in the house. Visitors can try it at some restaurants if they are curious, or skip it and enjoy the lights.
Christmas Eve at 6pm
The main celebration is on Christmas Eve, when Icelandic Christmas begins at 6pm. Families gather for a large dinner, then open presents. Because of that, the afternoon of December 24 is quiet in town, and many shops and restaurants close early. Plan your meals and errands before then, and check opening hours for December 24, 25 and January 1.
The Christmas Book Flood
Books are among the most popular gifts in Iceland, and publishers release many new titles before Christmas. The tradition has a name, Jólabókaflóð, or the Christmas Book Flood. Many people read in bed after the Christmas Eve meal. Bookshops in Reykjavik are full of life in December, and they make a pleasant, warm stop on a short winter day.
Laufabrauð and Other Treats
Laufabrauð, or leaf bread, is a thin, round flat bread cut with delicate leaf-like patterns and fried. Families often make it together in the weeks before Christmas, and bakeries sell it too. It is easy to find in December if you want to try it.
Seeing the Season in Reykjavik
The city is full of lights in December. A Christmas tree sent from Oslo is lit in early December at Austurvöllur, and shop windows, streets and squares are decorated. Walking the center in the evening is one of the simplest pleasures of a December visit. For more on how a holiday trip works, see our guide to Christmas and New Year in Iceland.
The Thirteenth Day: January 6
Christmas ends on January 6 with Þrettándinn, the thirteenth day. Towns light large bonfires, sing and set off fireworks, and folklore says the elves may appear. If you are traveling around New Year, it is a nice finish to the season.
Bringing the Culture Into Your Trip
A local guide can explain what you are seeing, tell the stories behind the traditions, and plan the day around the holiday closures. A custom private tour can mix a day of sightseeing with an evening in the city, and your guide can adjust when places close early. For daytime sightseeing, a private Golden Circle tour fits neatly into short December days.
Frequently Asked Questions
Who are the Yule Lads?
They are 13 folklore characters who visit children one at a time, starting the night of December 11 and ending on Christmas Eve.
When do Icelanders celebrate Christmas?
The main celebration is on December 24, starting at 6pm with a family dinner and presents.
What is Þorláksmessa?
It is December 23, when many people finish last preparations and eat skate.
What is the Christmas Book Flood?
It is the tradition of giving and reading books at Christmas, with most new titles published in the weeks before.
Are shops open on Christmas Eve in Iceland?
Many close early on December 24 and stay closed on Christmas Day, so check hours and plan ahead.