Hvalfjordur: The Scenic Fjord Drive Most Tourists Skip in Iceland
Hvalfjordur: The Scenic Fjord Drive Most Tourists Skip in Iceland
Discover Hvalfjordur (Whale's Fjord), Iceland's hidden scenic drive near Reykjavik. Learn about its WWII history, waterfalls, and why this detour is worth taking over the tunnel every time.) Every day, thousands of vehicles pass through the Hvalfjordur tunnel while travelling between Reykjavik and northern Iceland. The tunnel saves about 45 minutes, but it also causes travellers to miss one of the most beautiful fjord drives in the country. Hvalfjordur, or \"Whale's Fjord,\" stretches roughly 60 kilometres around a deep inlet surrounded by towering mountains, and the scenery along this route makes the extra time completely worthwhile.
A Fjord with Layers of History
Hvalfjordur earned its name from the whales that once gathered in its waters. For centuries, the fjord supported a whaling station that operated until the late 20th century. Remains of that era can still be seen along the shoreline, including old processing buildings slowly being reclaimed by nature. However, the fjord's most significant historical chapter dates back to World War II. Between 1940 and 1945, Hvalfjordur served as a major base for Allied naval operations in the North Atlantic. British and American warships sheltered in the fjord's deep, protected waters before escorting convoys across some of the world's most dangerous shipping routes. At the height of these operations, the fjord hosted thousands of military personnel. Concrete bunkers and gun emplacements were built along the shores, and some of these structures still remain today. They offer visitors a fascinating glimpse into a chapter of Icelandic history that many travellers never discover.
Glymur: Iceland's Second-Tallest Waterfall
Hidden within a canyon at the head of Hvalfjordur lies Glymur, a 198-metre waterfall that was once considered Iceland's tallest. Although another waterfall formed following the glacial retreat of Morsarjokull later claimed the record, Glymur remains one of the country's most spectacular natural sights. The hike to Glymur takes around two to three hours round-trip and includes a river crossing, a cave passage, and a steep climb along the canyon edge. The effort is rewarded with breathtaking views into the gorge, where the waterfall plunges dramatically down dark cliff walls. This hike is best enjoyed between June and September, when the trail is free of snow and the log crossing is safely in place.
The Drive Itself
The scenic fjord route, Route 47, branches off the main Ring Road just north of Mosfellsbaer. From the very beginning, the landscape becomes the highlight of the journey. Mountains rise sharply on both sides, while countless waterfalls stream down the slopes during spring and summer as melting snow feeds the cascading streams. Along the route, sheep graze peacefully on steep hillsides, and abandoned farmhouses sit quietly in remote valleys. The road also passes Saurbaer Church, built in 1886, which offers a peaceful stop with beautiful views across the fjord. Farther along the drive, travellers pass the site of the former whaling station. A monument marks the area, and on calm days, the fjord's still water perfectly reflects the surrounding mountains, creating an almost unreal scene.
Why This Drive Pairs Perfectly with the Golden Circle
Hvalfjordour lies between Reykjavik and thingvellir, the first major stop on most Golden Circle routes. Instead of taking the tunnel and reaching thingvellir quickly, travellers can choose the fjord road and enjoy one of southwest Iceland's most scenic drives. The route adds roughly 45 minutes to the journey, but it replaces a dark tunnel with stunning landscapes, hidden waterfalls, and historic landmarks. Some private Golden Circle tours already include Hvalfjordur as part of the experience, allowing travellers to stop at scenic viewpoints and lesser-known attractions before continuing toward thingvellir, Geysir, and Gullfoss. For visitors who have already completed the standard Golden Circle, this route offers a completely different perspective.
Wildlife Along the Fjord
Nature lovers and birdwatchers will find plenty to admire around Hvalfjordur. During summer, Arctic terns nest along the shoreline, eider ducks and gulls glide across the calm waters, and oystercatchers walk along the rocky coastline with their bright orange beaks clearly visible. Seals are sometimes spotted resting on rocks near the mouth of the fjord, especially during calm weather. Binoculars improve the chances of spotting them, although patient visitors occasionally notice them swimming close to shore. The surrounding hills are also home to Icelandic horses and sheep, both of which have been part of this landscape for centuries.
Practical Information
Driving the full Hvalfjordur loop usually takes around 60 to 90 minutes without stops. However, most travellers spend additional time stopping for photographs, short walks, or the Glymur hike. Facilities along the route are limited, so carrying water, snacks, and a full tank of fuel before starting the drive is highly recommended. Mobile phone coverage may also become weak in certain areas, making offline maps especially useful. The road is fully paved and suitable for all vehicles throughout the year, although winter driving conditions may require extra caution. Travellers who prefer a more relaxed experience can also explore the fjord through a guided private tour, allowing them to fully enjoy the scenery without worrying about navigation.